Medieval Recipe Book Archive Session Recap
Medieval Recipe Book Archive Session Recap
By Maria Murad, D.Phil Candidate in Anthropology, Lincoln College
Two of TORCH’s post-graduate research networks, the Critical Food Studies Network and the Medieval Women’s Writing Research Group, collaborated with the Centre for the Study of the Book at the Bodleian for an exciting and interactive session on Medieval recipe books on February 5th, 2025.
The session began with a presentation from food historian and former librarian of Keble and Oriel Colleges, Marjory Szurko. Her book, Sweet Slices of History, was shortlisted for the Fortnum & Mason Food Book of the Year in 2019. In her talk, Szurko discussed how the discovery of a small Edwardian family cookbook compiled by an alumnus of Oriel College in the recesses of the library inspired her research interest in food history. She later translated and explored the sweet recipes of past centuries and put together equivalent recipes in modern English. As part of her research practice, Szurko believes that actually baking the recipes she translates allows her to better understand how the food she researches must have been prepared and tasted. She has shared these treats at ‘Edible Exhibitions’ at Oriel, where she once presented a merengue sculpture of the College. Attendees learned many interesting facts about the history of food and sweets. Szurko mentioned how the term “dessert” comes from the French verb “desservir” which means “to clear the table” as house staff used to usher those eating at the dining table to another room to eat sweets in order to clear the table efficiently.
Dr. Alison Ray, current Lincoln College archivist and Support Officer for Academic Engagement at the Bodleian, presented several medieval recipe books from the Bodleian’s collections that highlight the sheer diversity of food-related material accessible at the Bodleian. One recipe book presented is one of the five original hand-written cookbooks of New College. Attendees of the event were able to view the recipe for “New College Pudding”. Other books included a mix of food and medicinal recipes, showing how some of the sweets we eat today were actually used for medicinal purposes in the medieval period. For example, gingerbread cookies were often used as a cold remedy during that time.
At the end of the session, attendees were invited to try nine different medieval sweets handmade by Szukro. These treats were organized in chronological order and included 14th century “Payn Ragoun” (pine nut sweetmeat) from the Forme of Cury, 16th century shortcakes (shortbread), 17th century gingerbread, and 18th century chocolate puffs (or merengues). The experiential and immersive process of eating food from the recipe books just presented was an incredibly special and interactive experience attendees were grateful for. This event brought together University members from various disciplines and showcased the positive impacts interdisciplinary spaces can bring to researchers at the Bodleian.
